Before you bring your puppy home be sure you have the following supplies:


1. Premium quality dry pet food to get your new puppy off to a good start.

  • Diamond Naturals small breed Puppy Food!! This then Transitions to Diamond Naturals Lamb and Rice Dog Food. 

2. name tag with your puppy's name, your name, phone number and your veterinarian's name and phone number. A collar and a leather or nylon 6-foot leash.

3. Non-Tip Dog Food and water bowls.



4. X-Small or small for our Goldendoodles and Medium size for the Bernedoodles (depending on dimensions) metal 2 door-folding crate.


  • Crate 24L x 18W x 19H Inches:  for pets 11 to 25 pounds

  • Crate 30L x 21W x 24H Inches:  for pets 25 to 50 pounds

  • Double Door, Fold and Carry Configuration for portability

  • Easy to clean composite plastic pan; Safe and secure slide-bolt;

  • Needs a Divider Panel

  • 5. Bed that is Completely Machine Washable, Ultra-Soft Synthetic Sheepskin 

  • (DOn't Use bed in crate until puppy is completely potty trained)

  • Covers  made from durable easy care machine washable and dryer safe 100% Polyester



  • we also love this bed when the are puppy Come Home!! 


6. Brushes and combs suited to your puppy's coat


7. Tearless puppy shampoo, toothbrush and paste.


8. High-quality, safe chew toys to ease teething.

 Home Goods and Amazon have great toys!!


9. Heartworm, flea, tick and parasite controls.

We recommend Revolution, because it does it all, it even prevents heartworms.

We also recommend Pyrantel Pamoate Suspension for de-worming


10. Nail clippers & Quick Stop

(Quick Stop prevents nails from bleeding if cut too short).



11. Treats. Our dogs love Zuke's treats, Natural balance treats 

and boiled chicken livers are nutritious,

inexpensive, and make a great all natural treat too.


Also if you can bring a towel, rag, or a cloth type of dog toy with you when you pick up your puppy, to rub the scent of the other puppies onto it, you can keep this towel, rag, or dog toy, in the crate with your new puppy for added comfort. Anything you bring into our home must be washed in a water & bleach solution first, to make sure you don't track any parvovirus germs into our home.

Depending on your home situation you might want to also purchase:

12. Potty trainer synthetic grass

  • Three layer system, Non-Toxic Odor Resistant Synthetic Grass Mat

  • Plastic insert which allows the liquid to drain, Durable collection tray

  • Perfect for patios and indoor use, So easy to clean, just rinse with soapy water

  • Great when your pet can't go outside

  • Dimensions: 20 x 25 x 1.25 In

13. 2 Dog exercise pens

one with a door is the best.

this keeps puppy in a clean and secure area. Use this as a training tool not as a place to keep your puppy all day. Great to have one inside for play area and one outside for potty training. EZ Whelp mats also protect your indoor floor and the puppy from germs. 

14. Puppy Snuggle

Eases puppy crying, Loneliness, seperation anxiety by appealing to natural instincts in a new environment. 


15. All Pet honesty products

But especially these tasty probiotics help with puppies digestion and immunity!



15. Travel System

This K&H buckle booster eases and secures  puppy while driving safely. the puppy is elevated enough to look out the window and feels secure with the high soft walls surrounding them. 





Helpful Hints


  • Using stainless steel, non-tip food bowls, which won't break or absorb odors.


  • Toys with parts that squeak or whistle can be dangerous if swallowed. We highly recommend buying a Kong as one of the toys, a Kong filled with peanut butter can keep your puppy busy for hours.


  • For a comfortable collar fit, allow for two-fingers of space between the collar and your dog's neck; consider using an an adjustable collar.


  • Puppies will wear a collar the size for a cat, it will need to be an extra small collar or one used for Toy breeds. A body harness can work well too, but will need to be removed, the pup can not wear it all the time, only when going for walks etc.


Making A Home Safe


  • To make your home safe for your new puppy, eliminate potential hazards around the house and pay attention to the following items:

  • Keep breakable objects out of reach.

  • Deny access to electrical cords by hiding or covering them

  • make outlets safe with plastic outlet plugs.

  • Safely store household chemicals.

  • Keep the following house and garden plants out of reach: poinsettias, azaleas, rhododendrons, dumb cane, Japanese yew, oleander and English ivy among others.

  • In the garage, be sure engine lubricants and other poisonous chemicals (especially antifreeze) are safely stored.

  • If you own a pool or hot tub, check the cover or the surrounding fence to be sure they're in good condition.

  • If you provide your puppy with an outdoor kennel, place it in an area that provides sun and shelter in the pen; be sure the kennel is large enough to comfortably accommodate your puppy's adult size.


The First Days at Home


The ideal time to bring home a new puppy is when the house is quiet. Discourage friends from stopping by. First establish a daily routine and follow these steps:


Step 1: Before bringing your puppy in the house, take your puppy to the area in your yard that will serve as their "bathroom" and spend a few minutes there. If your puppy goes, give lots of praise. If not, proceed into the house. Be sure to take your puppy to this spot each time they need to use the bathroom.


Step 2: Take your puppy to the room that accommodates your crate. this restricted area will serve as their new "den" for several days. Put bedding and chew toys in the crate, leave the door open and line the area outside of the crate with newspaper, in case of an accident. Let your puppy investigate the crate and the room. If your puppy chews or urinates on his bedding, permanently remove it from the crate.


Step 3: Observe and interact with your puppy while they are acclimating to their new den. This will help forge a sense of pack and establish you as the pack leader.


Special Puppy Concerns


Don't treat a puppy as young as 8 to 12-weeks old like an adult dog. Treat him the same way you would your own infant: with patience, constant supervision and a gentle touch. The way you interact with your puppy at this age is critical to his socialization. Use these tips: Don't bring home a puppy while on vacation as this will confuse your puppy. Instead, acclimate your puppy to your normal, daily routine.


Supervise your puppy at all times and interact with your puppy regularly.


Be alert for signs (sniffing and circling) that your puppy has to go to the bathroom, then take your puppy outside immediately.


A young puppy has no bladder control and will need to urinate immediately after eating, drinking, sleeping or playing. At night, your puppy will need to go to the bathroom at least once every three hours.


Don't punish an accident. Never put your puppy's nose in the waste or scold. your puppy won't understand, and may learn to go to the bathroom when you're out of sight.


Praise your puppy every time they goes to the bathroom outside.


Feed your puppy a formula designed for puppies. Like a baby, they needs nutritious, highly digestible food.


Meeting Resident Pets


Keep resident pets separated from your new puppy for a few days. After your new puppy is used to his new den area, put an expandable pet gate in the doorway or put your puppy in his crate. Give your resident pet access to the area. Let pets smell and touch each other through the crate or pet gate. Do this several times over the next few days. After that, give the resident pet access to the den area with your new puppy out of his crate. Supervise their meeting and go back to through-the-gate/crate meetings if trouble arises.


Children and Pets


Ideally, your kids should help you choose your new puppy. When you bring your puppy home, don't let your kids play with your puppy constantly. Puppies in particular need a lot of rest just like a growing child. Limit puppy-children play sessions to 15-30 minute periods 2-3 times a day.


  • Young children may be tempted to shout at a puppy if they think he's doing something wrong. Be sure they understand that puppies and dogs can be easily upset and startled by loud noises.



  • No teasing. Keeping a toy just out of reach will reinforce bad habits such as jumping up and excessive barking.



  • Wagging tails and play biting can be too rough for some young children. Supervise interaction and separate them if the play is too rough.



  • Teach kids to care for a dog by showing them how to feed and groom.



Grooming Basics


No matter what your mother said, it's not just what's on the inside that counts, not at least, when it comes to canine care. Your dog's health and happiness are also dependent upon a well cared for exterior coat, ears, mouth and nails.

Show dogs and those with special grooming problems (severely matted hair, hard to groom ears and infected gums, to name a few) need the attention and skills of a veterinarian or professional groomer. But you easily can give your dog routine every-day care at home.

Regular brushing helps eliminate tangles and mats and helps your dog get accustomed to being handled. It also gives you the opportunity to check for ticks and fleas, lesions, lumps and changes in his skin and coat. Pet-supply stores and catalogs sell a wide array of brushes for different coats and conditions.


Slicker brushes have a bed of fine, closely spaced wires that usually are hooked or bent, they're good all-purpose brushes for removing mats, loose hair and debris.


Pin brushes have a bed of widely spaced tines that look like straight pins. The tines sometimes are tipped with plastic. Pin brushes are also good for removing tangles but can be uncomfortable for grooming shorthaired dogs. They can and do hurt.


Bristle brushes and metal combs are used in the final grooming step for longhaired dogs, leaving their hair sleek, smooth and shiny. A bristle brush may be the only brush you'll need for a shorthaired dog.


Begin the brushing process with a slicker or pin brush to remove dead hair, debris and tangles. For breeds with long and very thick coats, you should groom with both brushes, using the slicker brush first.


For tough tangles, gently comb or brush small sections at a time, giving yourself and your dog a break every few minutes. Be careful not to tug at or tear the hair.


After the coat is smooth, give your dog a final brushing with a bristle brush for shorthaired dogs or a comb for longhaired dogs. Give plenty of praise during the brushing process and reward your dog with a treat when you're finished.


Bath time is much easier after a thorough brushing. Place your dog in a tub or a basin with a nonskid surface. Hold your dog's collar firmly, then slowly pour several pitchers of lukewarm water over their body, being careful to leave the head dry.


Soap your dog's body with a dog shampoo, then massage the soap into a lather, talking to your dog and praising as you work. When their body is lathered, move to the head, being careful to keep shampoo out of their eyes, ears and mouth.


Rinse and dry your dog's head, then rinse their body. When the water runs clear, rinse one more time.


Thoroughly dry your dog with towels. If your dog has healthy skin, you can dry them further with a hair dryer set on low or warm temperature.


Bathe your dog every two or three weeks, except in the winter when once a month probably will do. Of course, always wash your dog when it is dirty or smells, regardless of when it was last bathed.


Proper foot care will keep your dog dancing and help prevent unnecessary pain and infection later on. Most dogs don't like to have their feet handled, so go slowly one paw at a time and make foot handling a part of playtime.


Remove mats of hair from between the toes and pads of dogs with hairy feet, if ignored, the mats can become as hard as rocks. Then, using scissors, trim the hair between the pads and between the toes so it is level with the dog's foot.


Regular exercise on a hard surface may keep a dog's nails worn down. However, most domestic dogs will need to have their nails clipped every few weeks. If the nails are allowed to grow, they may curl inward into the skin and cause a painful infection.


Use nail clippers designed specifically for dogs. One type, known as the guillotine style, has a round opening for the dog's nail and a blade that slides across to clip the nail. Another type works like a pair of scissors. This type puts less pressure on the nail and is more comfortable for the dog. Make sure the blades are sharp.


Trim only the "hook" end of the nail. Clipping a nail to short can be painful and may cause bleeding. Frequent trimming of a small amount of nail always is better than waiting until the nail is long. Never trim into the quick, the live portion of the nail.


Ear care generally is the easiest grooming task. Unless your dog has ear problems or spends time hunting and swimming, ear cleaning needs to be done only every few weeks at bath time is best.


Clean the outermost area of your dog's ears with a cotton ball or cotton swab dampened with water or baby oil. To clean further inside the ears and soften and remove wax, use an ear-cleaning solution.


Warm the bottle of solution between your palms, then squirt the prescribed amount into your dog's ear canal. Gently massage the base of his ear. Remove any dirt or wax with a dry cotton ball.


Tips for House Training Puppies


As with most things in life, there are hard ways and there are easy ways to get things done. Rubbing a puppy's nose in a mess is an inappropriate way to house train. Using ample amounts of supervision and positive reinforcement is the easy way. The first course of action in house training is to promote the desired behavior. You need to:

  • Designate an appropriate elimination area outdoors



  • Frequently guide your dog there to do their business



  • Heartily praise him when they go


By occasionally giving a food reward immediately after your dog finishes, you can encourage them to eliminate in the desired area. The odor left from previous visits to that area will quickly mark it as the place for the pup to do their business.


A six- to eight-week old puppy should be taken outdoors every one to three hours. Older puppies can generally wait longer between outings. Most puppies should be taken out:

  • After waking in the morning


  • After naps


  • After meals


  • After playing or training


  • After being left alone


  • Immediately before being put to bed


Eliminating On Command


To avoid spending a lot of time waiting for your puppy to get the job done, you may want to teach them to eliminate on command. Each time your puppy is in the act of eliminating, simply repeat a unique command, such as "hurry up" or "potty", in an upbeat tone of voice. After a few weeks of training, you will notice that when you say the command your puppy will begin pre-elimination sniffing, circling, and then eliminate shortly after you give the command. Be sure to praise him for his accomplishments.


Feeding Schedules


Feed as follows, dividing the suggested amounts over several feedings:

  • 6-12 weeks old 3-4 times/day

  • 3-6 months old 2-3 times/day

  • More than six months old 1-2 times/day


Weight -Suggested amount for entire day:

  • 5-10 lbs. -.25 to .5 cups

  • 10-15 lbs. - 0.6 to 1.0 Cups

  • 20-30 lbs. - 1.0 to 1.5 Cups

  • 40-50 lbs. - 2.0 to 2.2 Cups

  • 60-70 lbs. - 2.5 to 3.2 Cups

  • 80-90 lbs. - 3.5 to 4.2 Cups

  • 100 lbs. - 4.0 to 5.0 Cups


Most puppies will eliminate within an hour after eating. Once you take control of your puppy's feeding schedule, you will have some control over when they need to eliminate.

  • Schedule your puppy's dinner times so that you will be available to let them out after eating.


  • Avoid giving your puppy a large meal just prior to confining them or they may have to eliminate when you are not around to take them out. Schedule feeding two to three times daily on a consistent schedule.


  • Have food available for only 30 to 40 minutes, then remove it.


  • The last feeding of the day should be completed several hours before your puppy is confined for the night. By controlling the feeding schedule, exercise sessions, confinement periods, and trips outdoors to the elimination area, your puppy will quickly develop a reliable schedule for eliminating.



Expect Some mistakes


Nervous Wetting


If your puppy squats and urinates when they greets you, they may have a problem called submissive urination. Dogs and puppies that urinate during greetings are very sensitive and should never be scolded when they do this, since punishment inevitably makes the problem worse.


Most young puppies will grow out of this behavior if you are calm, quiet, and avoid reaching toward the head during greetings. Another helpful approach is to calmly ask your dog to sit for a very tasty treat each time someone greets them.


Direct your puppy Away from Problem Areas


Urine and fecal odor should be thoroughly removed to keep your dog from returning to areas of the home where he made a mess.


Be sure to use a good commercial product manufactured specifically to clean up doggy odors. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for usage.


If a carpeted area has been soaked with urine, be sure to saturate it with the clean up product and not merely spray the surface.


Rooms in the home where your dog has had frequent mistakes should be closed off for several months. they should only be allowed to enter when accompanied by a family member.


Don't Make Things Worse


It is a rare dog or puppy that can be housetrained without making an occasional mess, so you need to be ready to handle the inevitable problems.


Do not rely on harsh punishment to correct mistakes. This approach usually does not work, and may actually delay training.


An appropriate correction consists of simply providing a moderate, startling distraction. You should only do this when you see your dog in the act of eliminating in the wrong place.


A sharp noise, such as a loud "No" or a quick stomp on the floor, is all that is usually needed to stop the behavior. Just do not be too loud or your pet may learn to avoid eliminating in front of you, even outdoors.


Practice Patience


Do not continue to scold or correct your dog after they have stopped soiling. When they stop, quickly take your dog outdoors so that they will finish in the appropriate area and be praised. Never rub your dog's nose in a mess. There is absolutely no way this will help training, and may actually make your dog afraid of you.


The basic principles of housetraining are pretty simple, but a fair amount of patience is required. The most challenging part is always keeping an eye on your active dog or puppy. If you maintain control, take your dog outdoors frequently, and consistently praise the desirable behavior, soon you should have a house trained canine companion.


Crate Training


Training a puppy to be comfortable in a crate is a popular way to provide safe confinement during house-training. The majority of puppies will rapidly accept crate confinement when you make the introduction fun. Since it is important to associate favorable things with the area where your puppy is confined, it is a good idea to play with they there, or simply spend some time reading or watching television nearby as they relaxe with a favorite chew toy. If your puppy is only in the area when you leave, it becomes a social isolation area that they eventually may resist entering.


A good time to start crate training is at dinner time. Feed your puppy their dinner, one piece at a time, by tossing pieces of kibble into the crate for they to chase and eat. This way, you can make a game out of training.


When you pick up their toys, store them in the crate so your puppy will enter on their own to play. You may even want to occasionally hide a biscuit in the crate as a nice surprise. You should not use the crate for periods that exceed the length of time the pet can actually control the urge to urinate or defecate. If you are gone for long periods each day, you will need to provide a larger confinement area. You may want to consider using an exercise pen or small room.


Provide an area large enough so that if your puppy has to eliminate when you are gone, they can do it in a space that is separate from his sleeping area. A 15 to 30 square foot area is adequate for most puppies. If they choose a specific place to eliminate, cover it with paper or wee wee pads to make clean up easier.

411 Puppy Care Packet

Northern California,

Loomis, Penryn, Auburn, CA

T 916-741-7754

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